Embedded in the familiar aspects of everyday life, from strolls on the streets and sports activities to short getaways, Berluti’s collection offers a new concept of elegance, placing the core function and comfort of the wearer at the forefront. The fashion house achieves this through meticulous craftsmanship.
Moreover, the Fall-Winter 2023 collection signifies a revival of heritage passed down through generations at Berluti, showcased through Toile Marbeuf, a line of bags inspired by the interior of the first boutique on Marbeuf Street in the capital of Paris – hailed by fashion connoisseurs as a ‘sanctuary of wood and leather.’ The foundation for the main design concept of the collection resembles a visual dialogue between the past and the future, between generations of craftsmen from the previous century to contemporary descendants.
Chapter 1: Summit Icons – The Pinnacle Icons
Embarking on Berluti’s Fall-Winter journey, ‘Summit Icons’ defines a timeless aesthetic by reinterpreting classic works through the development of a bold new layout. It embraces a sophisticated sprezzatura style, blending a touch of glamour with youthful and dynamic sportswear flair.
Featuring premium silk and high-quality leather with distinctive Scritto patterns, fashion designs like rugged leather jackets (Perfecto Jacket), engineer-style jackets (Chore Jacket), and track pants are ingeniously combined by Berluti to create a balanced, elegant yet unrestrictive ensemble.
Berluti’s iconic designs become even more captivating with a new seasonal color palette of Indigo denim and Opuntia green, representing winter skies amidst leaves, vividly expressed through the classic Berluti art of Patina – a technique pioneered by the Berluti family.
Accompanying these iconic pieces, Beruti introduces an entirely new sports shoe design inspired by the classic style of the 1960s. It features a soft leather and suede construction with an ultra-light rubber sole, creating a distinctive mark of leather craftsmanship mastery.
Chapter 2: Ascent Play – The Uphill Game
The next theme in The Great Escape collection is Ascend Play. Through a modern lens on a backdrop of a century-old heritage, Berluti’s descendants break boundaries with contemporary sport-inspired designs, emphasizing leather and artisanal craftsmanship, providing comfort while retaining the inherent luxury of the fashion house.
From sheepskin tracksuits, jogging joggers, creatively designed sweatshirts with suede, to varsity leather jackets and Scritto-patterned nylon parkas, Berluti transforms ordinary sportswear into extraordinary pieces.
Additionally, two new designs of the Softy (Super Soft) bag line are introduced this season: a backpack with a dedicated shoe compartment and a messenger-style crossbody bag with spacious compartments, emphasizing both functionality and aesthetics sought by discerning gentlemen. Crafted from premium Venezia leather, durable and treated with an exclusive formula developed by the fashion house, these unique designs promise to offer fashion enthusiasts a fresh perspective on the flexibility of high-quality leather.
Chapter 3: Ridge Travel – Roaming on the Horizon
Putting contemporary aesthetics at the forefront, Ridge Travel – the third theme in the collection illustrates the meeting point between classic craftsmanship and modern technological support. Berluti’s artisans studied the transition between generations, approaching and creating designs with versatile structures, blending sporty comfort with premium materials applied to high-end cashmere suits, engineer-style leather jackets, and intricate knit fabrics.
With neutral tones as the basis, Berluti introduces the completely new Toile Marbeuf bag line, inspired by heritage. Constructed from Venezia leather in a brown reminiscent of Club House sofa seats and Boiserie wood paneling in the Marbeuf boutique – the oldest store of the fashion house since the 1940s, revered as the ‘sanctuary of wood and leather.’
Featuring six standout versions with canvas, linen, and cotton carefully crafted with a protective coating, adorned with the stylized Scritto pattern – an iconic symbol of Berluti derived from handwritten characters on an antique letter, the Toile Marbeuf collection displays the graceful spirals reminiscent of French staircases, delicately symbolizing the steps that lead people to the glamorous city of Paris.
Chapter 4: Peak Point – The Summit
The grand adventure of The Great Escape concludes with Peak Point – the final theme amplifying the characteristic models of winter clothing with excellent thermal resistance and resilience to varying weather conditions. With the pinnacle of craftsmanship, this theme presents a warm color palette resembling wood and fireplace on winter days.
Exclusively for boot enthusiasts, Berluti introduces the specialized mountaineering boot design, Brunico, available as a ready-to-wear version, bringing bespoke creations closer to fashion enthusiasts. Additionally, the new Ultima boot design lined with sheepskin is unveiled, a testament to Berluti’s commitment to preserving the shoemaking heritage since 1895.
The iconic Toujours tote bag now comes in a version made from deer leather, featuring a sheepskin lining inspired by traditional bomber jackets, perfectly complementing the matching boots.
Concluding the 2023 season with a fresh perspective, Berluti not only reaffirms the distinctive mark of a century-old craftsmanship master but also demonstrates boldness and innovation in fashion thinking, bringing a new definition of timeless elegance amid the waves of temporary trends.