Hermès is one of the few brands that can convincingly argue that ultra-short leather shorts will become the new standard for the beauty of the male physique…
For Spring-Summer 2024, Hermès under the direction of Véronique Nichanian unexpectedly undergoes a transformation with a somewhat sweetly “provocative” sensuality. The Hermès gentlemen in Nichanian’s eyes awaken genuine emotions on the runway, evoking irresistible emotions and thoughts about a collection with a mission to stir the imagination of the beholder.
The essence of Spring-Summer is vividly expressed through a new “body aesthetics” from Creative Director Véronique Nichanian: Double belts create visual focal points on garments using a neutral color palette.
The collection perfectly captures the “practical” vision of the seasoned artistic director when presenting designs specifically for the “hot season” – contrary to the seasonal approach of many fashion houses that often introduce models closely related to the Fall-Winter season. The thin, lightweight fabric applied in the collection is likened to a second delicate skin, allowing the wearer to feel the gentle warmth of early summer. Double waist details are prominently featured, cleverly utilizing Hermès’ iconic design and metallic materials.
The Spring-Summer spirit is expressed with a focus on practical aestheticism. The suit is transformed, eliminating shoulder pads to create a soft feel for the outfit, cleverly balanced with double waist details and sleek ankle boots.
Thin cotton material with a fox-eye mesh is used for shirts; Sheer fabric is chosen as the lining for jackets, bringing interesting surprises to the runway. Meanwhile, a significant number of boldly cut short shorts reminiscent of 1980s men’s fashion use soft cotton, linen, and sheepskin. For Nichanian, this “provocative” element that may cause controversy is interpreted ingeniously from her perspective.
Inspired by shorts for boys, harmonizing with traditional masculinity in Hermès fashion.
Nichanian’s perspective on masculinity is presented as a new declaration in an era erasing the boundaries of gender stereotypes and toxic masculinity.
“These shorts are indeed very short.” – The fashion designer agrees when sharing about the new body definition for gentlemen. They evoke a sense of mischievous boys with playful legs.” For Nichanian, shorts for men are an opportunity to revolutionize gender in fashion, in an era where standards of gender identity are becoming more flexible than ever. A gentleman doesn’t necessarily have to confine himself in rigid, boxy clothing; he can still enjoy outfits with a hint of playful youthfulness.
The neutral color palette of Spring-Summer 2023 preserves the understated luxury of Hermès’ DNA. The “quiet luxury” characteristic is not proclaimed by the fashion house; instead, a silent red subtly dominates every stitch, every thread.
Material and color choices (inspired by the natural hues of Spring-Summer) create a light-catching effect on the skin: The wearer’s complexion is elevated, finely tuned to the meticulously adjusted layers of clothing. Silk, cotton fiber, technical fabric, and cashmere provide a gentle, fluttering sensation. Travel coats, thin jackets, and modified shirts form an elegant layering formula for Spring-Summer, gracefully moving with each step of the male models. Nichanian playfully experiments with cutting techniques and Hermès’ rich material archive, transforming thin fabric strips that can be seen through into luxurious garments for gentlemen.
A vibrant red adorns a thin parka for warm weather. Hermès remains loyal to its discreet luxury style, focusing on processing garments with the brand’s distinctive details. Premium leather is applied to many outfits, honoring the brand’s century-old heritage.
And… it would be incomplete without mentioning accessories. Brown and dark gray Haut à Courroies bags transition to navy green. The braided rope tote, soft leather with fox-eye details matching the shirt in the collection, shares the attention of fashion enthusiasts with small asymmetrical side pouches that are both stylish and convenient. Aesthetic and functional, Nichanian places utility on par with everyday aesthetics, skillfully placing the Hermès reputation at the center of a runway that celebrates innovative aesthetics.